Although the Spring/Summer 2016 collections will be presented soon, we will take one last look at the current season and the most exciting young designer we encountered this year: Hed Mayner. The Israeli, still based in Jerusalem, debuted in Paris only two seasons ago, yet his current - and second ever - Autumn/Winter 2015 collection is amongst our clear favorites of everything we have seen. In his coherent set of creations Mayner mixes elegant traditional tailoring with military elements, which he simply explains through having it around him so much in the streetscape of his hometown. Another important source of inspiration is orthodox Jewish tailoring, having a strong tradition in oversized silhouettes covering the body rather than mirroring it in its shape. The results are a remarkable clash of different aesthetic and culturally charged elements, forming a fresh vision on luxurious fashion, which should promise the designer to become a household name of modern menswear in the years to come. [ Continue reading ]
The all new sportswear brand AEANCE aims to bridge the gap between working out and going out. Designed in collaboration with German fashion designer Hien Le - known for an elegant clean cut colorful aesthetic - for this first collection, the brand makes its debut with a 19-piece running collection for men and women with a timeless appeal. Despite the dominant rhythm of fashion having to present twice a year, AEANCE decided to produce on a non-seasonal basis. The upcoming collections will feature further fashion names to work with the brand and its clean cuts and rigorous attention to technical and athletic detail. Keep an eye on this elegant newcomer in sports apparel. [ Continue reading ]
Our friend Koen Tossijn has come a long way since we both had a share in the 'Blue Jeans' exhibition, which took place over two years ago in the Centraal Museum in Utrecht. At that point Koen still solely focussed on bespoke denim with his label Atelier Tossijn, but his ambition always was to create a full wardrobe of staple piece items, boiled down to perfection. Born out of his longing for a greater quality of life and a fascination for the everyday, in the last two years Tossijn went on a quest to find a way to work outside and within the modern-day fashion industry. Instead of an ever-changing new collection, Tossijn aims to create one steady stream of everyday essential pieces, which he named fittingly the 'Wardrobe' collection. Designed to their most essential form and made in ton sur ton shades with only the best materials available, the pieces in the Wardrobe evolve over time in a constant search for perfection, which is seldom seen in modern fashion anymore. [ Continue reading ]
We are very proud to introduce another remarkable Tenue de Nîmes collaboration, this time having joined forces with none less then Hancock VA, presenting two perfect coats for a rainy winter, both presented under an iconic bespoke collaborative label. Hancock VA's Art.41 coat in black/taupe is an elegant single-breasted raincoat. Concealed placket, exposed top button, two front pocket welts and rear button down vent detail and a detachable quilted liner in khaki makes it perfect to keep you dry and warm during the colder months. The elasticated jersey trim featured in all new Quilted Articles of Hancock VA is a reference to Thomas Hancock's first ever patent in 1820 when he invented elastication in clothing, where the V-Quilt is also a Hancock signature that refers to ‘vulcanisation’. The second coat; Hancock's Art.49, which was created in night/ink is the modern trenchcoat redefined. It featuring a cross-over, concealed fastening for a clean aesthetic, leather buckle tension belt and traditional shaped, adjustable sleeve tabs. Another proud step forward in the Tenue de Nîmes universe. [ Continue reading ]
We recently discovered the promising work of Dutch London College of Fashion graduate Sebastiaan Pieter. The designer, who set up his eponymous label after completing a BA in Bespoke Tailoring, has been creating collections for the last four seasons, being hailed as one of the exciting new names in menswear based in London. Combining sportswear elements with traditional high quality suiting, Pieter was picked up by the NEWGEN initiative, which granted him a sponsorship for his Spring/Summer 2016 collection and resulted in his biggest collection til date. Inspired by an Ellen von Unwerth editorial for The Face featuring several girls getting inked and pierced -from the time when Pieter first discovered the power of fashion(imagery) as a teenager- he subtly wove ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics and contemporary tattoo and piercing culture into his (at times) gender-defying designs for the elegant fashion-forward man. We love this. [ Continue reading ]
For the just released 12th issue of Journal de Nîmes we travelled to Antwerp to speak with retail pioneer and well-respected figure within the fashion industry: Geert Bruloot. The curator of the current shoe exhibition in the ever-inspiring MoMu has played a pinnacle role in the road to stardom of the infamous Antwerp Six, which he sold before any one else at the avant-garde designer store Louis and exclusive footwear boutique Coccodrillo. On that rainy wednesdayafternoon we sat down with him and talked about the main theme of the issue 'new vintage', the importance of the experience in a fashion store and the need for rebellion in these times of homogeneity.
— As published in Journal de Nîmes No 12 — [ Continue reading ]
Last year Nike introduced its ambitious and innovative NikeLab to the public. One of the first collections launched via the new platform and chain of select retail outlets were the Holiday 2014 designs of its super impressive collaboration with Jun Takahashi, founder of avant-garde label Undercover. Last week, the two presented their latest joint endeavor with the Holiday 2015 collection. As always the designs show a blend of leading Nike innovation and Takahashi’s creativity and unique sense of individualism. This particular collection was specifically informed by data from the Nike Explore Team Sport Research Lab and inspired by insights from Takahashi’s GIRA (Gyakusou International Running Association) crew, resulting in gear which was designed to layer. The pieces form not just some of the most elegant designs in run wear, but they are just as cutting edge in its pragmatism as aesthetic: providing elegant protection against the elements in the best possible way. [ Continue reading ]
In recent years a growing number of brands, institutions and (digital) platforms have seen the potential of engaging its community beyond their core activities - with fashion being the ultimate tool to turn following into ambassadors. Magazines, museums and galleries, to name a few - whether with help or alone - have successfully moved into the world of global (street)fashion, which has become a greedy monster searching for new brands to lend its temporarily hype to. Next to these somewhat foreign players on the market, there is no limit on new ‚traditional’ fashion brands coming to life either, making it rather hard to (continue to) stand out - with an overal lack of creativity/lending of ideas being the other evident reason.. A new name which in our eyes has succeeded in creating a brand with a durable potential - based on Parisian cool translated into on-point graphic design-based collections for males and females - is Club Pétanque, which was founded last year, inspired by the elegant all-French sport of Pétanque. [ Continue reading ]
After releasing a preview in May, our friend Olaf Hussein returns today with the official release of his Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. Through his latest designs, one of the most promising names in Dutch menswear clearly shows his global ambition by moving beyond the foundational inspirations of denim and the Amsterdam heritage, embracing influences from the North and on the other hand the realm of elegant sportswear. Titled 'Ø L Å F' - the moniker which has given the label a growing visibility in the fashion world through the popular caps, socks and recently released graphic tees - the collection embodies an oxymoronic idea of nuanced boldness. Athletic details, combined with a strong black and white color palette and forward-facing materials, exemplify the outdoor world colliding with the inward-bound hectics of a city. With 'Ø L Å F', the brand continues its pursuit of an expressive yet sophisticated aesthetic and doing so in a highly promising way. [ Continue reading ]
Amsterdam-based luxury travel bag brand Travelteq is one of those brands we have had a very close relationship with for the last half decade, both online in our writings as in the real world. Following a string of shared projects - like visiting the Travelteq factory in 2011 - we are very proud to present the latest and largest collaboration in which we worked together to redefine the strategy, rebuild the brand and restyle the complete identity. In the new vision for Travelteq a direct-to-consumer model is introduced. Key in this new ecosystem is the cutting out of the middlemen, through which Travelteq is able to eliminate high markups - passing the savings to the customers, offering highest quality handcrafted Italian bags and accessories at a revolutionary price point. In line with this new direction an updated aesthetic for the communication of the brand Travelteq was created and introduced in all its different elements on the newly launched website. [ Continue reading ]
In the early Seventies a young Margaret Howell found a shirt at a jumble sale. It was this fine, well-tailored shirt which sparked the initial inspiration to make men’s shirts of her own (after having designed bracelets and chokers for Browns the years before). At that time, the shirts - of Jermyn Street quality but with a more relaxed line - were made by Howell herself, and after demand grew by a group of machinists in a workshop she set up in 1973. At that point Howell's designs attracted a new influential generation of American buyers, including Tommy Perse, of concept store Maxfield’s; Ralph Lauren, who at that time also sold other brands; and also British names like Paul Smith; Browns and most importantly Joseph Ettedgui (of Joseph) who subsequently launched Howell as a clothing brand. More than 30 years on and Margaret Howell heads one of the most inspiring companies worldwide. But, despite the size of her current operation, the designer's approach has remained just the same over all these years, making her for us an often overlooked, but undeniable, visionary icon of modern fashion. [ Continue reading ]
Last week the oldest Parisian department store; Le Bon Marché, inaugurated an inspirational reflective room, created by New York designer Thom Browne whose Autumn/Winter 2015-2016 installation ‘Office Man 2′ dominates the complete second floor of the retail institution. Formulated as a conceptual variation on the designer’s presentation at New York Men’s Fashion Week last July, the dedicated floating space replicates a kaleidoscopic infinity effect of wall-to-wall mirrors illuminated by fluorescent tubes. The main twist of the Paris edition is not it’s lack of suited male models, but rather the surreal, still life install of more than fifty pairs of Browne’s iconic black leather wingtip shoes – each produced in genuine silver – which seem to reference the designer’s Spring 2013 men’s show. [ Continue reading ]
Although the 25-year-old talented German artist/designer Simon Freund has been creating similar products under the SIMON&ME moniker, his self-titled brand is completely new to the market after it was launched on the 1st of August 2015. The 20 immaculate objects presented in the collection perfectly reflect Freund's vision on design, functionality and aesthetics. The highly clean cut - limited - staple piece products will appeal to those who love elegant, high quality minimalist style boiled down to its core. Everything under the Simon Freund brand is being produced in Germany, given a stamped certificate of high quality authenticity, just as had been the case with the designer's former brand. We feel very inspired by the vision which clearly lays behind such a cohesive collection, very likely becoming a strong name next to the existing minimalist brands. And therewith also underlining the already high level of the SIMON&ME line, yet now presented by just Simon on the next level. [ Continue reading ]
After we announced the arrival of the new Tenue de Nîmes jeans last June, today we are ready to share the ‘Pablo’ - created out of a Japanese fabric named 'Memphis Blue' - in all its indigo glory. To fulfill the high expectations, both internally as from the outside world, in the creation of the perfect Tenue de Nîmes denim, before the start of production the roots of sincere quality in denim were researched and found in Italy. Over the course of the past decades the European country has been the unquestionable authority in the production and development of the highest quality jeans and therefore it was decided that the 'Pablo' would be produced by a small factory in Italy, an hour away from Veneto, owned by an Italian family business. The new jeans serve the traditional denim aficionado to all its wishes, being a straight jean with a slightly more relaxed top-block and a slim but easy leg, resulting in a more classic ‘Americana’ model compared to the first jean produced by Tenue; the slimmer - sold out - 'Charles' which preceded the 'Pablo'. If you want to be part of Tenue de Nîmes history make sure to quickly order online or pick one of the 140 pairs up at the stores. Before its too late.. [ Continue reading ]
We recently became familiar with the new optical brand BLYSZAK eyewear, which was conceived in London a year ago after one year of researching the global market and developing a specific frame shape. The core ethos to the new brand is creating from a clean aesthetic and with a sincere quality. Powder-coating, grade-A steel and laser-cut hand-polished horn by-product come together to form a signature collection comprising of one remarkable style in seven variations. Creative director of the brand; Andrew Blyszak worked with the highly inspirational London manufacturer, and creator of one of our favorite horn models out there; Edward Gucewicz, to create the very first 'Collection I', which we feel shows great promise for BLYSZAK eyewear to become a consistent inspirational name in the world of optics. Keep an eye out on this new brand from London! [ Continue reading ]
Following the success of its Maison Kitsuné Gallery, Parisian Maison Kitsuné's first ever pop-up shop in Hong Kong which inaugurated last March 2015, the brand settles down in the city for good with the opening of its beautiful first Maison Kitsuné Hong Kong pied-à-terre. Nestled in the famous shopping district of Causeway Bay, this new address of 80 m² reveals a post-modern chic space fusing the brand's parisian heritage with some subtle touches of traditional Asian decors. To celebrate this opening, Maison Kitsuné has re-edited its successful "Hongkongais" capsule collection, consisting of two t-shirts in new summer colorways as well as a bowling-inspired chambray dress and short sleeves shirt. exclusively available in the store. We love this great new chapter in the inspirational Kitsuné universe. [ Continue reading ]
It's been a number of years since we have last written about Copenhagen-based creative studio and clothing brand Norse Projects, but with the just released imagery for the Autumn/Winter 2015 collection they really caught our attention. The new lookbook was produced by a remarkble team: consisting of the talented photographers Justin Chung - who we know through his incredible 'Faculty Department' project - and Luke Norman alongside Inventory Magazine's fashion director - and one of the most inspirational people working in fashion - stylist Stephen Mann. The series puts a clear focus on those elements which Norse has become famous for since its foundation in 2004. The images show the collection's purist approach along with progressive ideals through the use of aerial lines, soft textures, and subtle details, including technical inspired directional outerwear in soft hues and muted tones. And not just the collection itself stands out, as the series was shot upon the backdrop of another favorite of ours: the workshop of noted Scandinavian furniture design house Fritz Hansen. [ Continue reading ]
Although the current summer in The Netherlands granted us a fair share of sunshine already, like every year in the lowlands we can't get away from a hefty rain shower now and then. The field of elegant choices when it comes to rainwear for these kind of days has expanded significantly over the last few years and Copenhagen-based RAINS has been one of the brands in that field which we have been following since it was founded in 2012. The new Autumn/Winter 2015 collection shows everything what the brand has been setting apart since it arrived: understated sophistication and technical fabrication, sharp cut modern raincoats in different lengths and colors and an extraordinary 100% waterproof bag collection - which we particularly appreciate. [ Continue reading ]
To celebrate his now iconic minimalist sneaker's 10th anniversary, in January 2014 one of our favorite designers and tastemakers around; Erik Schedin teamed up with Comme des Garçons Shirt to re-release the white leather model with unique added graphics. Another version with the colorway option inverted was released soon afterwards using black as the primary color of choice for the low-rise model with white graphics. And now the Swede and Comme des Garçons Shirt return and continue their great collaboration for a third rendition, this time in color: having created the sneaker in a sharp shade of blue and a beautiful deep green with the identical black graphics as its predecessors. We love these beautiful new styles of one of the cleanest sneaker around! [ Continue reading ]
After we wrote about the inspirational presentation of the summer version of his A Suit To Travel In, Paul Smith once more shows his remarkable vision in the campaign of his Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. Capturing the confident use of color in the designs, the campaign for the inspirational designer's collection is the first Paul Smith collection to be shot by the photographic artist Viviane Sassen, who we have been admiring ourselves for years. And what a wonderful hybrid of worlds the campaign has become - both creatives having an eye for exquisite stand out colors and the beauty of aesthetic contrast. As part of the campaign one can spot that the signature ‘Paul Smith’ logo is re-imagined with a playful sense of scale and positioning. A sense of modernity and wit is present throughout the campaign, echoing the essential qualities of Paul Smith, making the campaign a clear season favorite of ours. [ Continue reading ]
We recently became familiar with the Amsterdam-based REE PROJECTS, a young fashion brand developing collections for a women's wardrobe with a main focus on pure, refined timeless pieces with an edge. Having just stepped out in the world with a sharp and clean breakout collection which we really like. The brand has been inspired by a 'lost & found' suitcase found at the Dutch railway station many years ago. The suitcase and its contents - a stranger's wardrobe - are the conceptual starting point for both the REE PROJECTS brand and each individual design, be it now or in the future. The suitcase symbolizes the brand's journey and the new collection of bags is the first step. We really like REE PROJECTS highly potential debut collection and accompanying imagery and look forward what the future will bring us from this new name. [ Continue reading ]
Last week, as part of London Collections: Men, Paul Smith presented a summer take on his incredible 'A Suit To Travel In', which he impactfully introduced during the Autumn/Winter 2015 LC:M week in an utmost stylish manner, using English Olympic medallist Max Whitlock. For the lighter summer take on the suit Paul Smith chose another highly unorthodox presentation, using Ben Savage, a World Champion trials cyclist, who presented the garments to the world while hopping around an installation that was purpose-built in Hauser + Wirth. The cloth of the new suit is 100% New Zealand wool, for which Paul Smith worked with Loro Piana - one of the best cloth mills in the world - to develop. The yarn is woven very tight, as it was in the Autumn/Winter 2015 'Suit To Travel In' giving the crease resistance making it very sturdy, but it's woven loosely to make it more breathable for the hotter months of the year. We love both the suits as this incredible presentation! [ Continue reading ]
We really like the latest project of Norwegian Rain's co-founder, and one of our favorite people working in fashion; the immaculate T-Michael, who joint forces with Dutch optics specialist Ralph Vaessen in a collaboration which was officially launched yesterday at Pitti Uomo. Both T-Michael and Vaessen have a distinct sense of elegant stand-out style and a sincere love for luxurious craftsmanship and after a chance meeting their new creative enterprise was born. The result is a capsule collection of one model; simplistic yet tantalizing for the pure at heart and the lover of devilish detailing. Named 'Raphael', the extraordinary glasses are produced by hand in Germany of natural horn - the material of choice for most of Ralph Vaessen's models and a clear favorite of ourselves as wel - and comes in four color ways: ivory, slate, grey, ebony and chocolate. [ Continue reading ]
The inspirational printed project named Bare is a journal for which founder and Creative Director; Claudia Bruno, as well as Co-Editors-in Chief; Emily Lundin and Courtney Saunders find inspiration in the unadorned moment of truth. The magazine forms their ode to the raw beauty of realism, with all of their collaborators working with no creative brief, except for one quite unusual restriction in the digital age; no use of retouching is allowed. Bare - which was founded in 2014 - gives Bruno and her team the perfect context to work with artists, writers and photographers they admire, creating beautiful stories. Next to the fact that Bruno, Lundin and Saunders all are being located in different places on the globe, the workplaces of the complete team of Bare range from Amsterdam, London, Barcelona, New York City, Berlin, Montana to Los Angeles. Making the magazine a wonderful example of remote working, without it getting in the way of the diverse elegant quality it offers throughout its pages. [ Continue reading ]
