Rop van Mierlo & Remco van der Velden
Into the wild universe
We recently met up with Rop (/Rob) van Mierlo and Remco van der Velden to speak about their brand Wild Animals. Having just moved into a new space in the north of Amsterdam, which opened the week before our visit, they explained how a new phase is about to start. Having just introduced two new directions of products that will be available next season named Patterns and Flowers, for the first time moving beyond depictions of animals, they are ready to show the wide range of Rop’s signature wet-on-wet aesthetic.
The current moment also marks the end of a period that was dominated by three major brand collaborations, out of which the H&M kids wear partnership had by far the most impact on the duo. It introduced their work to a global audience, but at the same time (for the first time in their existence) it alienated some of their core followers that didn’t appreciate the fast fashion affiliation. Now, they are ready to move on, with a myriad of new insights, and with the space (financially and time-wise) to finally start growing their Wild universe into new realms.
Here are some of the things we spoke about >
The two of you officially started the Wild Animals brand in 2019 to apply Rop’s artistic signature in any way you seemed fit – ranging from clothes, rugs, mugs and different printed products. In order to be less subject to the whims of the (art) market.
Remco: We also specifically wanted to create a brand revolving around products. The intention was never to just make “merch”. We wanted to market things that will fit Rop’s signature while also having an audience on their own. Things that people want to have because of the work and for what they are. We’ve been balancing these two components since the beginning. We made a master plan before we started in terms of our ambitions, product development and business growth — we are still working hard to make that a reality, step by step. Unexpected things and opportunities constantly present themselves, but our overall course remains pretty much stable.
Rop: There are products that suddenly go through the roof, which catch us completely by surprise. There have been certain t-shirts, which we expected to do relatively well, but all of a sudden do exceptionally well. Without us really being able to explain why that was the case. Then again, sometimes that has to do with the Instagram algorithm pushing a product in the “For you” page of people who want to buy these things.
Remco: That’s also why we are currently investing a lot in our digital infrastructure. And that’s also why we have moved all stock back to the new location as well. We want to feel everything first-hand and thus anticipate on the actual situation of our brand. That’s also great about having our new space.
Rop: That was my biggest insight when we opened this space, presenting an overview of all the work we did in the past years. We had to take a moment to reflect on all of that. That had an effect on me. Seeing all the upcoming projects; Patterns, Flowers, combined with the older work and all the collaborations we’ve done over the years. It all made sense, seeing it together. I still can get insecure about that sometimes. To see it all in overview was, for me, the proof that the project works well. It was a coherent whole. That gives me a lot of inspiration to keep stretching the framework.
That sounds like a good foundation to really start creating a complete universe of products.
Remco: Last year we did three big collaborations, which did give us turnover. But it also left us with little time for that expansion of that universe you are mentioning. In the coming period everything is focused on diversifying what we do. In our own way. We always want to make a product in the way we believe it should be made. Despite the challenges to do so – it needs to be done right. And we stick to our long-term plan. We always come back to that. We’re in this for the long game.
Speaking of collaborations. The list of names – Hermès, Marni, Vitra, Moncler, A24, amongst others – is nothing short of very impressive. In terms of scale, last year’s H&M partnership undoubtedly stood alone. It was also your first project in the fast fashion space, which caused quite a stir. How did you experience all that?
Rop: It was a lot of work, that’s for sure. But, I also thought it was one of the most constructive collaborations. I found them super respectful and helpful to make the best possible product.
Remco: The price-quality of H&M is insane.
To what extent were you challenged on your moral compass in the collaboration?
Remco: That was an extensive process. Not between the two of us, because we were on the same page, but more of an internal process. It was a big topic for the both of us. We are not a brand that speaks a lot about sustainability, but it is inherent in our way of working and what we are looking for in terms of suppliers. We produce small quantities and have quality as our main driver.
The H&M story started rather curiously in the first place. H&M’s creative director simply approached us via an Instagram DM. Then we initially thought it was just H&M in the Netherlands. Or perhaps Europe. But it turned out to be global. Then, during the first call, they also came completely prepared. They had a full presentation and a super solid approach on how it would be rolled out around the globe.
Rop: I didn’t have a lot of time for that first call, so I called beforehand to ask how serious they were. And I was then told over the phone that it would be a global collaboration. My response was: “that’s kind of big.” To which answered: “no it’s not big, it’s huge.” Haha! They do one collaboration for the kids line a year.
Remco: They came up with a complete direction and approach and product-wise it was very different in terms than we would do it. But it did fit in our vision.
Rop: I remember mentioning that I like sleek, basal, and clean silhouettes in that first meeting. And whether we could maintain that in the collaboration. Everything was met with enthusiasm. That felt like a totally new experience – in terms of a brand we work with not being very specific in their demands and wishes.
Remco: You could tell that they have been doing this for a long time. And that was a really cool experience, for us. They also convinced us to collaborate showing us their collaborations with big inspiring fashion brands like Comme des Garçons and Stella McCarthy. For us to experience this approach was very special. And the speed they work in: crazy. The quality and quantity of the samples they produce: insane. That was all a very fascinating experience.
If we would do it ourselves, a t-shirt for children costs €40. With no margin. And we didn’t start Wild Animals to be some kind of high-end, elite brand. It just is the actual price for the standard of quality and production we strive for. So, in the end we just really liked the idea that we would be able to set the threshold a lot lower for Rop’s work with this particular collaboration. Besides, it gave our company a financial boost to realise the next steps with our own label.
What is next based on last year’s experiences?
Remco: First, we will publicly introduce our new Patterns project, which is currently being sold for the upcoming season by our sales agency. And it is doing quite well. We are still growing in wholesale accounts: mostly woman’s boutiques in Asia, but also unexpected high-end boutiques in Europe. We are pretty much maxed out in terms of production for the wholesale demand of our knitwear. Which we still produce in the same small atelier in Bosnia.
We are hoping that our new products will serve a new audience, next to the knitwear. And alongside bags and clothing, we are starting up a few new product categories. We want to start with a memory game, for which we are still trying to find the right partner.
And in terms of your fine art, Rop?
Rop: At one point I will try to find a gallery for my paintings. Detaching it from this project.
Remco: That has to happen at some point. We partly started to “be Rop’s gallery ourselves.” But we’ve backed away from that position in the las few years. We did offer Rop’s originals for a while, but for many reasons that needs to be done by someone else.
Rop: At this point, I also still feel I need to paint a lot more, too. Once it feels right, I want to take the next step there.
Remco: If we succeed in diversifying our offerings through the new products, then there’s also going to be more time left for free work. I feel like that the new directions will offer us enough to creatively consolidate what we have, instead of having to find even more directions.
We feel like we are unto something with the new directions, so that’s were our focus will be in the coming period. With all the learnings of the past period in the back of our heads and in our new space in Amsterdam-Noord. As long as we stay on the same page together, we will find our way forward. To continue to stay close as a duo, despite having to deal with certain challenges, is something we have really trained in the last few months.
For Wild Animals and beyond by Rop and Remco see here >
For other work by Rop van Mierlo see here >
Studio photography by Olly Geary
