Iris van Herpen Spring/Summer 2015
We are blown away by this extraordinary ready-to-wear collection by the Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, which she presented in Paris on September 30th of this year. For the collection van Herpen found inspiration in a visit to CERN’s Large Hadron Collider, whose deadly magnetic field exceeds that of earth’s by 20.000 times, forming the essential spark and motif for the collection which she named Magnetic Motion. The designer, who often joins forces with like-minded artists from other fields then fashion collaborated with Canadian architect Philip Beesley and Dutch artist Jolan van de Wiel, which resulted in a dream team for the exploration of the boundaries between nature and technology and a simply stunning collection.
I find beauty in the continual shaping of chaos which clearly embodies the primordial power of nature’s performance.
Techniques like injection moulding and laser cutting on maze like structures and intricate architectural handwork on dresses, jackets, trousers, skirts and blouses giving them dynamic shapes and surfaces that echo the body’s movement are all to be recognized in the pieces which echo natures forms in a ultimate way. Through the three dimensional nature and the layering of the garments the designer created volumes which seem direct translations from the world of plants and flowers.
The silhouettes of van Herpen are colored in the for her familiar minimalist palette of black, white, midnight blue, and nude which puts extra emphasis on the garments’ insane forms. Micro webs of lace veil and reveal the luminescent glow of crystal forms, while triacetate feathers punctuate the soft drapes and volumes. A 3D printed transparent, crystal dress was created in collaboration with Niccolo Casas. The controlled structure of the clothes is offset by the chaotic structure of the accessories, shoes, belts, necklaces and clutches, which are created through magnetic fields making every piece unique. Simply stunning!
Iris van Herpen is a Dutch fashion designer and couturier renowned for her futuristic, darkly fantastical aesthetic, which she has shown during Couture Week in Paris. Van Herpen’s designs are utterly unique and works of art in themselves. Her early adoption of 3D printing technologies placed her in the vanguard of the technology’s introduction into fashion. She studied Fashion Design at Artez Institute of the Arts Arnhem and interned at Alexander McQueen in London, and Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam and began her label in 2007. The designer has collaborated with a number of artists from various disciplines, often on a recurring basis. Choreographer and dancer Nanine Linning, visual artist Bart Hess, milliners Stephen Jones and Irene Bussemaker, shoe brand United Nude, filmmaker Zach Gold, and jewellery designer Heaven Tanudiredja, along with director and filmmaker Joost Vandebrug.
For more information on Iris van Herpen see here.